Climbing equipment
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A wide range of equipment is used during Rock climbing. The most popular types of climbing equipment are briefly described in this article. The article on protecting a climb describes equipment commonly used to protect a climber against the consequences of a fall.
See also the Glossary of climbing terms for more equipment descriptions.
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[edit] Rope, cord and webbing
Climbing ropes typically consist of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres (hence the term kernmantle construction). The core provides most of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core and gives the rope desirable handling characteristics. The ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and static ropes. Dynamic ropes have a certain amount of elasticity and are usually used as belay ropes. The elasticity reduces the maximum force experienced by both a climber and their equipment should they fall. Static ropes are not elastic, and are usually used for carrying or attaching equipment. It is also used for abseiling as it reduces bounciness and makes it easier for a person to descend.
Webbing is flat rope, that is rope without a core. It is a versatile component of climbing equipment. Modern webbing is often made from exceptionally high-strength material. Webbing is usually tied or sewn into a loop and is then known as a runner or sling or quickdraw.
Runners have many uses, including anchor extension or equalisation, makeshift harnesses, carrying equipment and as a component of quickdraws.
Most beginning climbers will not invest in a climbing rope until they've had a few chances to see if they like it. If you only climb at a climbing gym, you may not have to buy your own rope, as most gyms will have set routes and supply the ropes at each climbing station.
[edit] Karabiners
Karabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. For recreational climbing, almost all karabiners are made from aluminum alloy.
Karabiners exist in various forms; the shape of the karabiner and the type of gate needs to be selected according to the exact use for which it is intended. There are two major varieties: locking, and non-locking karabiners. Locking karabiners offer a method of preventing the gate from opening when in use. Locking karabiners are used for important connection.
Karabiners are made with many different types of gates including wire-gate, bent-gate, or straight-gate. The different gates have different strengths and uses. There are also four different types of locking karabiners, including a twist-lock and a thread-lock.
Karabiners are also known by many slang names including krab and biner
[edit] Quickdraws
Quickdraws (draws, as referred to by most climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or protection. They allow the rope to run-through with minimal friction. Quickdraws usually consist of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn, loop of webbing. They come in varying lengths, and some even come as extendable slings. DMM even makes a wire-gate carabiner with a pulley built in on the end to reduce rope drag on the end of a quickdraw.
[edit] Harnesses
A Harness is used for attaching a rope to a person. The majority of harnesses used in climbing are worn around the waist, although other types may be seen occasionally, such as chest and full body versions.
Different types of climbing warrant particular features for harnesses. Sport climbers will typically use minimalistic harnesses except with sewn gear loops. Alpine climbers will choose lightweight harnesses, perhaps with detachable leg loops. Big wall climbers prefer lots of padding.
[edit] Belay/Rappel devices
These are mechanical devices used when belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay device exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is abseiling or rappeling.
[edit] Sticht plate
The original belay device, named for its designer. It consists of a metal disk with one or two holes drilled through. A wide wire spring is attached on one side. The rope is threaded through from the side without the spring through a locking carabiner and back through the same drilled hole. The locking carabiner is attached to the belayer who is then able to lock the rope at will.
Nowadays, Sticht plates are becoming less popular since more modern designs provide smoother control over the rope and are less prone to jamming, especially when doubling as a descender.
[edit] ATC/Tubular Devices
The ATC is a very popular proprietary design by Black Diamond. It is designed to facilitate slow and smooth feeding of the rope, and has a large surface area to dissipate heat away from the rope. These are significant improvements over the original Sticht plate but both devices are still used similarly.
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[edit] Autobelay Device - Redpoint Descender
The Redpoint Descender is a controlled descent device (auto belay) designed specifically for the climbing wall and climbing gym industry. The Redpoint Descender is typically installed overhead in indoor climbing gyms, on home climbing walls, on portable climbing walls, or on indoor and outdoor challenge courses and climbing towers. The Redpoint Descender provides a hands free belay for the climber, thereby eliminating the need for an additional climber or attendant to serve as belayer. The Redpoint Descender may be installed on a climbing wall where a top-rope would typically be used. Unlike a top-rope, however, the climber cannot hang suspended by the Redpoint Descender once he or she has let go of the wall. The climber will always be lowered to the ground at a continuous, controlled rate. The Redpoint Descender is NOT designed for lead climbing. The line automatically retracts into the unit, permitting repeated descents. The Redpoint Descender comes equipped with a replaceable line. The line may be replaced in the field by the end user.Image:Redpoint.jpg
[edit] Gri-Gri
A Gri-gri is a belay device that automatically locks the rope in the event of a fall. Because of the self-locking mechanism, it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC and modified belay techniques are widely used. Gri-gri's reportedly give a harder catch than a regular belay device because they allow less rope slippage when catching a hard fall. They are a proprietary design by Petzl. The Gri-gri is a preferred device for belaying the follower directly off the anchor because, unlike other devices marketed for the purpose (the Trango B-52 and the Petzl Reverso), lowering the follower is quite easy. Trango sells a similar self-locking belay device called the Cinch that is rated to work on ropes 9.4 to 11 mm (the Gri-Gri is rated from 10 to 11 mm).
[edit] Figure eight
Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment.
It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation.
Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. Furthermore, because of the excessive bends it puts on a rope, it can cause wear much faster than a bobbin or tube style device. Due to their excess weight and bulk compared to other descenders, many sport climbers avoid them. They are favoured, however, when the rope may become iced.
[edit] Rescue eight
A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a knot, thus stranding the rapeller on the rope. Rescue eights are frequently made of steel, rather than aluminum.
[edit] Ascenders
Ascenders are mechanical devices for ascending on a rope. They are also called Jumars, after a popular brand.
Jumars perform the same functionality as prusik knots but are stronger, faster, safer and less effort is needed to use them. A Jumar employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction (usually the intended direction of movement) but tightly grip the rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent a jumar from accidentally coming off the rope, a locking mechanism or trigger is deployed. The Jumar is first attached to the climber's harness by a piece of webbing or sling, and then the Jumar is clipped onto the rope and locked. For climbing a fixed rope attached to snow anchors on a steep slope, only one Jumar is used as the other hand is used for holding the ice axe.
[edit] Protection devices
Protection devices, collectively known as rock protection or pro, provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock. These devices may be categorized as passive (nuts, Hexentrics, etc.) or active (SLCDs).
[edit] Nuts
Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. In their simplest form, they are just a small block of metal attached to a loop of cord or wire. The most popular styles are tapers and Hexentrics. They are sometimes referred to by the slang term, wires.
Nuts are used by simply wedging them into narrowing cracks in the rock, then giving them a tug to set them.
[edit] Hexcentrics
Hexcentrics, usually called hexes, are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with tape. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of sizes varying from about 10mm thick to 100mm wide. Sides may be straight or curved.
[edit] Spring loaded camming devices
These consist of three or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, in such a way that pulling on the shaft connected to the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. The SLCD is used like a syringe, by pulling the cams via a "trigger" (a small handle) which forces them closer, inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock, and then releasing the trigger. The springs make the cams expand and grip the rock face securely. A climbing rope may then be attached to the end of the stem via a sling and carabiner.
They are often referred to as cams or friends®.
[edit] Tricams
A Tricam is a passive or active device consisting of a shaped aluminium block attached to a length of tape. The block is shaped so that pulling on the tape makes it cam against the crack, gripping the rock tighter. It requires careful placement so that it does not loosen when not loaded. It is generally not as easy to place as a SLCD but is much cheaper and lighter, and is the only thing that will work in some situations like quarry drill-holes and limestone pockets. The smaller sizes can work well in old piton scars. They can also be used Passively as nuts.
[edit] Indoor training equipment
Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training.
[edit] Grip savers
A small device that can help in developing the antagonist muscles to those used while gripping by the hand. Use of such a device can prevent ligament injuries that are frequently experienced by climbers.
[edit] Fingerboards
An apparatus chiefly used for improving grip strength and practising grip techniques. They generally consist of a variety of different-sized pockets and ridges that one may hang from, or upon which pull-ups can be performed. These are usually mounted above a doorway, or elsewhere with room to allow the user's body to hang freely. Also called hangboards.
[edit] Campus boards
A series of horizontal rungs attached to an overhanging surface that may be climbed up and down without the aid of the feet. When used properly, campus boards can be utilised to improve finger strength and, so-called, "contact strength".
[edit] Specialist clothing
In the early days of climbing, many would have considered specialised clothing to be cheating. In fact, the first climbers considered an untucked shirt or unbuttoned sport jacket a sign of weakness. Several climbers even chose to climb bare foot, an act that modern climbers would find amazing. In the 80s and early 90s the trend was to wear tight brightly-colored clothes. The trend is to wear more loose clothes now.
[edit] Climbing shoes
Specifically designed foot wear worn for climbing. To increase the grip of the foot on a climbing wall or rock face due to friction, the shoe is covered with a vulcanized rubber layer. Usually, the shoes are only a few millimetres thick and will have a very snug fit around the feet. Some have foam padding on the heel to make decents and rappels more comfortable.
[edit] Belay gloves
Despite being shunned by the many climbers who claim that belay gloves reduce grip on and control over the rope, belay gloves are a useful aid for belaying on long climbs. In particular, when lowering a climber they remove the possibility of rope burn and the subsequent involuntary release of the rope.
Belay gloves are constructed from either leather or a synthetic substitute. They typically have heat resistant padding on the palm and fingers.
[edit] Miscellaneous equipment
[edit] Helmet
- See also: Helmet
An often disregarded item of safety equipment that has saved many climbers from serious injury or death. A helmet is a tough item of headwear that primarily protects the skull against impacts. In well-developed and popular climbing areas, these impacts are more commonly caused by falling objects (such as pebbles or climbing equipment) than by a falling climber hitting the rock or ground.
Depending upon the type of climbing being undertaken, helmets are more or less common. There are a number of valid reasons for a climber to choose not to wear a helmet, including concerns about weight, reduction in agility or added encumberances. However, sometimes the reason can be just vanity. In a gym environment there is no discernible advantage to wearing a helmet but on multi-pitch routes or ice climbing routes only the most foolhardy would not wear a helmet. Between these two extremes, a personal judgement call needs to be made.
Many climbers refer to helmets as brain buckets.
Materials: The outer shell of rock climbing helmets is commonly made from these types of materials: Polycarbonate shell, hard plastic, polyethylene, polycarbonate or fiberglass. The inner shell is made for fitting comfort and distributing impact force. The inner shell is usually a foam liner or harness system.
Method of manufacturing: A method is disclosed for producing a protective helmet, the method comprising placing an inner shell having a dome portion and downwardly extending side portions on a die, positioning a further die so that a cavity is provided between the outer surface of the inner shell and the further die, filling the cavity with pre-foamed beads of polystyrene of selected density, and applying heat to expand the beads to create a continuous layer of shock absorbing material extending over the whole outer surface of the inner shell. Additionally, and subsequent to the formation of the layer of shock absorbing material, an outer covering may be applied to the outer surface of the shock absorbing material to provide a double-skin helmet.
[edit] Tape
Medical tape is useful to both prevent and repair minor injuries. For example, tape is often used to fix flappers. Many climbers, who choose not to rest adequately, use tape to bind fingers or wrists to prevent recurring tendon problems. Tape is also highly desirable for protecting hands on climbing routes that consist mostly of repeated hand jamming.
"Tape" is also used to refer to nylon webbing.
[edit] Haul bag
A large and often unwieldy, bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown. A rucksack or day pack often has a webbing haul loop on the top edge.
Haul bags are often affectionately known as "pigs" due to their unwieldy nature.
[edit] Gear sling
A gear sling is usually used by trad or big wall climbers for when they have too much gear to fit on the gear loops of their harnesses. The most simple forms are homemade slings of webbing, and the most elaborate forms have padding and two slings on each side.
[edit] Bouldering mat
A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover objects that would be hazardous in the event of a fall. They typically consist of a 2-6 inch thick foam section covered with a robust fabric covering. Many brands have integral handles and may easily fold into a reasonable dimension for carrying. Also known by the term crash pad or sketch pad.
[edit] Chalk
- See also: Chalk
Gymnasts' chalk is a powder that improves grip by absorbing sweat. It is primarily magnesium carbonate but often with added magnesium sulfate which acts as a drying agent.
While most climbers believe this improves grip on the rock by drying perspiration, others believe it to have a purely psychological effect.
For environmental reasons, the use of chalk is controversial in some areas. In areas where rain is infrequent (or under overhangs on any cliff) bold and unsightly chalk marks can build up on popular routes. In places where rain is more common, the chalk residue can form thick deposits. As a result, chalk coloured to match various rock types and biodegradable alternatives are now becoming available.
Overuse or reliance on chalk is occasionally referred to as Chronic Chalk Syndrome or CCS.
[edit] Chalk bag
These are hand-sized fabric bags for holding climbers' chalk. They are usually attached to the back of a waist belt for easy access during a climb.
The powdered chalk may be loose in the bag, or, increasingly, a chalk sock, or chalk ball, is filled with the chalk and this is placed into the chalk bag. Chalk socks are pouches made from a porous material that allows some chalk dust to be excreted when squeezed or rubbed.
[edit] Nut tool
A small, but vital, piece of equipment, also known as a nut key. It is made from a flat piece of sheet steel, about 200mm long, with a hook at one end and the other end shaped into a handle. It is used to extract, from cracks in the rock, nuts which could not be extracted by hand, especially when the nut has supported a climber's weight or arrested a fall. It may need to be hammered (possibly using a stone) in order to shift a particularly stubborn nut. Some models also have a pair of hooks at the handle end, which can be used to pull the trigger of a deeply-seated camming device.
[edit] Rope bag
A bag with a tarp, specially designed for storing and protecting a climbing rope.
[edit] Standards
There are two major standards bodies for certifying the safety and reliability of climbing equipment:
- CEN (European Committee for Standardisation)
- UIAA (International Federation of Mountaineering Associations)
Any products sold in Europe must, by law, be certified to the relevant standards. There is no such requirement in many other countries, although most manufacturers voluntarily follow UIAA or CEN standards.
[edit] External links
nl:Klimmateriaal pl:Sprzęt wspinaczkowy sr:Планинарска опрема
