Domestic rabbit
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
- This article is about domesticated European rabbits. For information on the wild variety, see European Rabbit. For general information on all rabbit species, see Rabbit.
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A domestic rabbit, also called a bunny, is any of the several varieties of European rabbit that has been domesticated by humans.
Male rabbits are called bucks; females, does. A previous word (sometimes still used) for an adult rabbit is coney, while rabbit referred only to the young animals.[1] More recently, the term kit or kitten has been used to refer to a young rabbit. A young hare is called a leveret, and this term is sometimes informally applied to a young rabbit as well.
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[edit] History
Phoenician sailors visiting the coast of Spain circa 1100 B.C.E., mistaking the European rabbit for a species from their homeland, gave it the name i-shepan-ham. A corruption of this name, used by the Romans, became the Latin name for Spain, Hispania. In Rome rabbits were raised in large walled colonies. These captive rabbits were raised as food and permitted to interbreed at will. No man-made breeds of rabbits had yet been developed.
Selective breeding of rabbits began in the Middle Ages, when they were first treated as domesticated farm animals. By the 1500s, several new breeds of different colors and sizes were being recorded.
In the 1800s, as animal fancy in general began to emerge, rabbit fanciers began to attend rabbit shows in Western Europe and the United States. Breeds were created and modified for the purpose of exhibition, a departure from the breeds that had been created for food, fur, or wool. The rabbit's emergence as a household pet began during the Victorian era.
Rabbits have also been used in laboratory animal experimentation, particularly regarding cosmetics products.<ref>PETA</ref> Since the 1970s the animal rights movement has attacked testing cosmetic and cleaning products tested on animals, particularly rabbits, and has decreased the rabbit's use in this field.
The domestic rabbit continues to be popular as a show animal and pet. Rabbit shows occur in many places and are sanctioned in Canada and the United States by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association (ARBA).
[edit] General Types
[edit] Meat Rabbits
Breeds such as the New Zealand and the Californian are most frequently utilized for meat in commercial rabbitries. In addition to pellet-only diets, these breeds have efficient metabolisms and grow quickly; they are ready for slaughter by approximately eight to twelve weeks of age.
Any type of rabbit exhibiting "commercial" body type can be slaughtered for meat with expectations of having a decent carcass. Dark fryers (any other color but albino whites)are usually docked in price by packers because of the slightly darker tinge of the fryer (pearly pink carcasses are prefered by consumers) and the fact that the hide is harder to remove manually than the white albino fryers.
Rabbit fryers are rabbits that are between 70 to 90 days of age and weighing between 3 to 5 lbs live weight, Rabbit roasters are rabbits from 90 days to 6 months of age weighing between 5-8 lbs live weight and Rabbit stewers are rabbits from 6 months on weighing over 8 lbs live weight (this is the area of old cull breeding bucks and does)
Crossbred rabbits "Smut" or the Californian crossed to New Zealand Whites tend to be a faster growing and higher producing animal both on live and carcass basis. At Texas A&M University, they are developing a terminal sire line called the Altex (Alabama and Texas)in conjunction with Alabama State University. The Altex Terminal Sire is 1/2 Flemish Giant,1/4 Californian and 1/4 Champagine De Argent in the final make up. Altex sires are to be bred to New Zealand White, White Satin, Californian and Champaigne does with all the kits (progeny) sent to slaughter
[edit] Fur Rabbits
Fur rabbit breeds come in many sizes; some fur rabbits are also meat rabbits. The rex and mini-rex are examples of common fur rabbit breeds. These rabbits are bred to have particularly soft and thick fur that can be used to make fur coats or trim on clothing.
[edit] Wool Rabbits
Rabbits such as Angoras and Jersey Woolies are used to produce what is called wool. Their long fur is sheared or "plucked" (gently pulling loose hairs from the body) and then spun into yarn and used to make a variety of products. Angora sweaters can be purchased in many clothing stores and it is generally mixed with wool, because otherwise it would be too warm to wear.
[edit] Diet
A rabbit should be given plenty of clean fresh water and pellets daily. For every 2 pounds of body weight, at least one cup of dark green, leafy vegetables should be fed, such as: romaine and escarole lettuces; turnip, mustard, and collard greens; kale, parsley, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. Carrots and fruits should be used sparingly, about 1 tablespoon per two pounds of body weight every other day. Starchy vegetables need to be avoided. Commercial feeds should not have nuts, as nuts are highly fatty and cause health problems, such as fatty liver, in rabbits (nuts are in rodent food, and rabbits are not rodents). Hay should be fed daily, free choice, such as timothy, brome, or oat hay. Pellets should be fed at once ounce per pound of body weight per day, as traditionally, pellets have been fed to rabbits that were meant to be eaten, and cause rabbits to grow overweight. If a rabbit gets pellets, a salt block is not necessary, as pellets are high in salt, though these blocks are not harmful to rabbits who like to have them occasionally.<ref>Susan A Brown, DVM, "Overview of Common Rabbit Diseases: Diseases Related to Diet"</ref> <ref>House Rabbit Society "What Should I Feed my Bunny"</ref> <ref>"Feeding the Pet Rabbit" from Oxbow Pet Products</ref> <ref>www.oxbowhay.com</ref>
The reason rabbits need unlimited amounts of hay is simple: a rabbit's teeth can grow up to five inches a year, but must be worn down to maintain a healthy bite. Make sure you give your rabbit a lot of hay and several wooden chew toys.
[edit] Caecal pellets
Rabbits are hindgut digesters. This means most of their digestion takes place in their large intestine and caecum. In rabbits, the caecum is approximately ten times bigger than the stomach, and it, along with the large intestine, makes up roughly 40% of the rabbit's digestive tract.<ref>"Feeding the Pet Rabbit"</ref> Caecal pellets, sometimes called "night feces", come from the caecum and are high in minerals, vitamins and proteins that are necessary to the rabbit's health. Rabbits eat these, usually early in the morning or later in the day, in order to get their nutritional requirements met. It is the only way they can extract all of the necessary nutrients from their food, as they eat high-fiber, hard-to-digest diets. Preventing rabbits from eating them leads to serious malnutrition, among other health problems.<ref>Dr. Byron de la Navarre's "Care of Rabbits"</ref> <ref>Dr. Susan A. Brown, DVM's "Overview of Common Rabbit Diseases: Diseases Related to Diet"</ref> Although they smell like droppings, caecal pellets are actually dark, very soft clumps of nutrition, similar in appearance to soft blackberries.
[edit] Rabbits as Pets
Rabbits have been kept as pets in Western nations since the 1800s. Rabbits can adjust well to indoor life, and can even be litter box trained. Like all pets, rabbits need a considerable amount of care and attention. The natural lifetime of a well-cared for domestic rabbit kept indoors has been known to reach 12 years.
[edit] Children's Pets
Rabbits are often thought of as childrens' pets. However, due to fragile bones and backs, rabbits make poor pets for young children, as they must be picked up and supported in a specific way that is difficult for children. Rabbits are quiet prey animals that can be fearful of sudden movements and noise.
[edit] Companionship
[edit] Other rabbits
Unneutered rabbits frequently fight when paired with another rabbit of the same gender. Fighting is often the result of sexual mounting, which is engaged in by rabbits of both sexes upon other rabbits of either sex; this behavior stresses the rabbit being mounted and can make it aggressive toward its cagemate. Unneutered rabbits of opposite sexes will breed rapidly.
Because of this, rabbits are often kept individually. However, as we learn more about rabbits and their social nature, it is becoming common to bond one rabbit to another for companionship. This can be done by spay and neuter pet rabbits allowing male and female rabbits to live together, or by bonding rabbits of the same sex. Keep in mind that fighting can result even from pairing altered rabbits. Keeping rabbits in pairs can limit behavioral problems, provide companionship and entertainment, and socialization.
[edit] Guinea pigs
Some books recommend keeping rabbits and guinea pigs together to meet their social needs. While there is varied success with this technique, it is recommended that rabbits should not be kept in the same cage with guinea pigs.<ref>The Essential Rabbit, editor Betsy Sikora Siing</ref> A rabbit can easily harass or injure a guinea pig; this can lead to severe distress or even death for the guinea pig. Rabbits and Guinea pigs also have differing nutritional requirements and therefore require separate foods.
[edit] Dogs and cats
Image:Domestic rabbit and dog.JPG It is recommended that dogs and cats not be left alone with rabbits as their predatory instincts (or overenthusiastic play) can lead to the dog or cat attacking the rabbit spontaneously. In rare cases, and after careful introductions, some people have found that dogs and cats can get along with rabbits.
[edit] Acquiring a Rabbit
People can purchase rabbits from a breeder. Many people prefer breeders, who often offer purebred rabbits. Finding a local rabbit breeder is generally preferred to shipping rabbits for long distances, as it is stressful for the animal. Rabbits can also be purchased from pet shops, and adopted from rabbit rescue organizations and humane society. The latter often have adult rabbits who are in need of homes. Their rabbits may already be spayed or neutered. Rescue groups and shelters may have both purebred and mixed breed rabbits.
[edit] Training and Play
Pet rabbits can be trained to urinate and defecate in a litter box or on a newspaper in a specific corner of a room. The litter box may also be placed inside the rabbit's cage or the rabbit can be trained to treat the cage itself as the litter box. Litter training becomes much easier once a rabbit is spayed or neutered.
Rabbits can be taught to follow voice commands like a dog, but they can also be trained to recognize different patterns of the voice. Rabbits can be taught their names, although they recognize the pattern of the noises more than the words. Rabbits are intelligent and enjoy games and toys.
It is possible to permit a rabbit to run loose in the home if rooms have been rabbit-proofed (i.e. dangerous chewable items such as electric cords are removed from the rabbit's reach). Rabbits have a tendency to chew on items in their space, particularly wires, although some can be encouraged not to chew dangerous or valuable items by offering alternatives such as chew toys.
Rabbits will play and throw around objects. Pet rabbits should be provided toys for their entertainment, health and psychological well-being as they are very intelligent creatures. If they do not have toys, they will get into wires, try to dig up carpeting, and chew on other things they shouldn't.
[edit] Breeds
- Main article: List of rabbit breeds
There are more than 50 different breeds of domestic rabbit. As with breeds of dogs, rabbit breeds were generally created by humans at different times, for different purposes.
[edit] Exhibition
[edit] Conformation shows
County fairs are common venues through which rabbits are shown in the United States. Rabbit clubs also hold shows though they usually permit only pedigreed rabbits to be entered. Children's clubs such as 4-H also include rabbit shows, usually in conjunction with county fairs.
The parent organization for rabbit exhibition in Canada and the United States is The American Rabbit Breeders Association. The American Rabbit Breeders Association currently has over 30,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and in various other countries. There are shows throughout the year and in some locations the shows take place most weekends.
[edit] Show jumping
- Main article: Rabbit show jumping
Rabbit show jumping, a form of athletic competition between rabbits, began in the 1970s and has since become popular in Europe, particularly Sweden and the United Kingdom. Any rabbit regardless of breed may participate in this kind of competition, as it is based on athletic skill.
[edit] Housing
[edit] Commercial rabbits
Commercial rabbits of all varieties are kept outdoors in steel wire cages that are hung or stacked in a barn, shed, or other shelter. Most large-scale commercial rabbitries have automated feeding and watering systems, and the cages have wire mesh floors (with a sloped tray underneath if the cages are stacked) to simplify waste removal. Nest boxes may be built into the cages for females.
Smaller rabbitries may still use wooden hutches, with partially mesh, partially solid flooring, though the difficulties in cleaning this type of cage have made it less popular in recent years. It is less efficient in both space and ease of care than the wire cage. However, the hutch's solid wood floor prevents sore hocks, a problem which results when the protective hair is rubbed off from the rabbit's hocks by a wire mesh floor.
Wool rabbits such as the Angora and Jersey Wooly are generally kept in individual cages to protect their coats.
[edit] Pet rabbits
Pet rabbits may be kept indoors or outdoors, but the cages used vary according to where the rabbit is kept.
Outdoor pet rabbits are usually kept in wire cages or wooden hutches. A wire cage must offer some kind of protective shelter, whereas wooden hutches are built with roofs or covered nest boxes that provide the rabbit shelter and shade.
There are two primary types of indoor rabbit cage: some have a wire floor with a sliding tray for waste removal, while others have a solid floor. Cages with solid flooring are almost always preferred to those with wire mesh floors, due to the fact that the wire is hard on rabbits' feet (they have no padding in their feet to cushion them) and toe nails are easily caught in the small holes. If a wire mesh bottomed cage is purchased, be sure to provide a solid place for your rabbit to rest it's feet comfortably.
When choosing a cage for your pet rabbit or rabbits, keep in mind their size and the fact that they are prey animals. Rabbits need a place to hide, a food dish, a water bottle, toys, and somewhere for their hay to go. Extras may include one or more litter boxes, an additional hiding place if you have 2 rabbits, or a blanket to play with. These things must fit in the cage in addition to your rabbit (or rabbits). There should be enough room for the rabbit to lay down across the width of the cage, to sit up on its hind legs without its ears touching the top of the cage, and to lay on the floor outside of its hiding place. Most pet stores stock only cages of an appropriate size for very small rabbits. For larger breeds consider getting multi-floor cages, such as those designed for ferrets or chinchillas. Some rabbit owners also build cages for their pets. Always remember that rabbits need some time outside of their cages to play and stretch their legs.<ref>House Rabbit Society "Checklist for New Bunny Guardian"</ref> <ref>Dr. Byron de la Navarre "Care of Rabbits"</ref>
[edit] Genetics
There are 10 color gene groups (or loci) in rabbits. They are A, B, C, D, E, En, Du, Si, V, and W. Each locus has dominant and recessive genes. In addition to the loci there are also modifiers, which modify a certain gene. These include the rufus modifiers, colour intensifiers, and plus/minus (blanket/spot) modifiers. A rabbit's coat only has two pigments, pheomelanin (yellow) and eumelanin (dark brown). There can also be no pigment, causing an albino or white rabbit.
Color Genes
Within each group, the genes are listed in order of dominance, with the most dominant gene first. In parenthesis after the description is at least one example of a color that displays this gene.
- Note: lower case are recessive and capital letters are dominant
- "A" represents the agouti locus(wild rabbit colour). The genes are:
- A= agouti (chestnut, lynx, agouti)
- at= tan pattern (tan, silver martin)
- a= self or non-agouti (black, chocolate)
- "B" represents the black locus. The genes are:
- B= black (chestnut, agouti, black)
- b= brown (chocolate)
- "C" represents the color locus. The genes are:
- C= full color (black)
- cchd= dark chinchilla (chinchilla)
- cchl= light chinchilla (seal point, smoke pearl)
- ch= Himalayan (black pointed white)
- c= albino (ruby-eyed white or REW)
- "D" represents the dilution locus. (For example, a black rabbit with this gene is a blue.) The genes are:
- D= dense color (normal coloring, like a dominant C)
- d= diluted color (blue)
- "E" represents the extension locus. It works with the 'A' and 'C' loci, and rufus modifiers. When it is recessive, it removes all dark pigment. The genes are:
- Es= steel
- E= normal dark pigment (black)
- ej= Japanese brindling (harlequin)
- e= no dark pigment (orange, frosted pearl)
- "En" represents the plus/minus (blanket/spot) color locus. It creates the broken color pattern. The genes are:
- En= English spotting (broken, which is white and another color)
- en= self (no white areas, solid color)
- "Du" represents the Dutch color pattern, (the front of the face, front part of the body, and rear paws are white, the rest of the rabbit has colored fur). The genes are:
- Du= absence of dutch pattern
- du= dutch pattern
- "V" represents the vienna white locus. The genes are:
- V= normal color
- v= vienna white (blue-eyed white or BEW)
- "Si" represents the silver locus. The genes are:
- Si= normal color
- si= silver color (silver, silver fox)
- "W" represents the middle yellow-white band locus and works with the agouti gene. The genes are:
- W= normal width of yellow band (chinchilla)
- w= doubles yellow band width (New Zealand Red)
[edit] Health Problems
[edit] Myxomatosis and West Nile Virus
Myxomatosis is a threat to the health of pet rabbits. It can be prevented by annual vaccinations. Rabbits caged outdoors in Australia are vulnerable in areas with high numbers of mosquitoes. In Europe, fleas are the carriers of myxomatosis.
West Nile Virus is another threat to rabbits, as they are related to horses. As of this point, there are no vaccinations against this virus and it is fatal. Recourse against the disease includes limiting the number of mosquitoes that are around pet rabbits.
[edit] Sore hocks
The formation of open sores on the rabbit's hocks, commonly called "sore hocks," is a problem that commonly afflicts rabbits kept in cages with wire floors. The condition results when, in the course of moving about the cage, the protective fur on the rabbit's hocks and feet is worn off and/or pulled out. The exposed skin further rubs on the wire floor, causing painful sores and blisters that can become infected.
Rabbits in cages with wire floors must be provided with a solid floor cage or a resting board in order to prevent this from occurring. Ideally, because rabbits do not have padding on their feet, they should have access to a solid floor at all times. Regular inspections of a rabbit's feet can help an owner head off the development of sore hocks.
[edit] Respiratory infections
An over diagnosed ailment amongst rabbits is respiratory infection. Pasteurella bacteria known colloquially as "snuffles," is usually misdiagnosed and has been known to be a factor in the overuse of antibiotics among rabbits.<ref>Respiratory Disease by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM</ref>
A runny nose, for instance, can have several causes, among those being high temperature or humidity; extreme stress; environmental pollution (like perfume or incense), or sinus infections. Options for treating this is removing the pollutant, lowering the temperature, and medical treatment for sinus infections.<ref>Respiratory Disease by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM</ref>
"Runny Eyes" can be caused by dental disease or a blockage of the tear duct. Environmental pollution, corneal disease, entropion, distichiasis, a disease of the third eyelid, or inflammation of the eyes are also causes. This is easy to diagnose as well as treat.<ref>Respiratory Disease by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM</ref>
Sneezing can be a sign of environmental pollution (think too much dust) or food allergy.
While Pasteurella is a bacteria that lives in rabbits' respiratory tracts, it can flourish out of control in some cases. In the rare event that happens, antibiotic treatment is necessary.
[edit] Head tilt or wry neck
Inner ear infections, certain protozoans, strokes, other diseases, or injuries affecting the brain or inner ear can lead to a condition known as wry neck or "head tilt." This condition can fatal, due to a disorientation that causes the animal to stop eating and drinking. Sometimes an antibiotic or antiprotozoal treatment can cure wry neck.
[edit] Teeth problems
Dental disease has several causes, namely genetics, innapropriate diet, injury to the jaw, infection, or cancer.
- Malocclusion. Rabbit teeth are open rooted and continue to grow throughout their lives. In some rabbits, the teeth are not properly aligned (a condition called malocclusion). Because of the misaligned nature of the rabbit's teeth, there is no normal wear to control the length to which the teeth grow. There are three main causes of malocclusion, most commonly genetic predisposition, injury, or bacterial infection. In the case of congenital malocclusion, treatment usually involves veterinary visits in which the teeth are treated with a dental burr (a procedure called crown reduction or, more commonly, teeth clipping) or, in some cases, permanently removed.
- Molar spurs. These are spurs that can dig into the rabbit's tongue and/or cheek causing pain. These can be filed down by an experienced veterinarian with a dental burr.
Signs of dental difficulty include difficulty eating, weight loss and small stools, anorexia, and visibly overgrown teeth. However there are many other causes of ptyalism including pain due to other causes. A visit to an experienced rabbit veterinarian is strongly recommended in the case of a wet chin, or excessive grooming in the mouth area.
[edit] Gastrointestinal stasis
Gastrointestinal stasis (or G.I. stasis) is a serious and potentially fatal condition that occurs in some rabbits in which gut motility is severely reduced and possibly completely stopped. When untreated or improperly treated, G.I. stasis can be fatal in as little as 24 hours.
G.I. stasis is the condition of food not moving through the gut as quickly as normal. The gut contents may dehydrate and compact into a hard, immobile mass (impacted gut), blocking the digestive tract of the rabbit. Food in an immobile gut may also ferment, causing significant gas buildup and resultant gas pain for the rabbit.
The first noticeable symptom of G.I. stasis may be that the rabbit suddenly stops eating. Treatment frequently includes subcutaneous fluid therapy (rehydration through injection of saline solution under the skin), drugs for treatment of the buildup of gas in the digestive tract, massage to promote gas expulsion and comfort, possible drugs to promote gut motility, and careful monitoring of all inputs and outputs. The rabbit's diet may also be changed as part of treatment.
Some rabbits are more prone to G.I. stasis than others. The causes of G.I. stasis are not completely understood, but common contributing factors are thought to include:
- a lack of fiber in the diet. Many pet rabbits do not get sufficient fresh grass hay but are instead mistakenly fed only commercial alfalfa pellets originally developed for rapidly increasing mass in rabbits bred for meat.
- insufficient moisture in the diet. Fresh, leafy greens are a critical part of a rabbit's diet in part because of their moisture content, which helps prevent the gut contents from becoming impacted.
- lack of exercise. Rabbits confined to a cage frequently do not get the opportunity (or motivation) to run, jump, and play which is critical in maintaining gut motility.
In addition, G.I. stasis can be caused by the rabbit not eating for other reasons, such as stress, dental problems, or other unrelated health problems.
G.I. stasis is sometimes misdiagnosed as cat-like "hair balls" by veterinarians not familiar with rabbit physiology.
For more information about G.I. stasis see:
[edit] Cancer
Rabbits frequently are subject to cancers of the reproductive organs by four or five years of age. Neutering or spaying a rabbit eliminates this risk and as a result may increase the animal's lifespan.
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[edit] References
1.
2. Susan A Brown, DVM, "Overview of Common Rabbit Diseases: Diseases Related to Diet"
3. House Rabbit Society "What Should I Feed my Bunny"</br>
4. "Feeding the Pet Rabbit" from Oxbow Pet Products</br>
5. www.oxbowhay.com [2]</br>
6. "Feeding the Pet Rabbit"</br>
7. Dr. Byron de la Navarre's "Care of Rabbits"</br>
8. Dr. Susan A. Brown, DVM's "Overview of Common Rabbit Diseases: Diseases Related to Diet"</br>
9. The Essential Rabbit, editor Betsy Sikora Siing</br>
10. House Rabbit Society "Checklist for New Bunny Guardian"</br>
11. Dr. Byron de la Navarre "Care of Rabbits"</br>
12. "Respiratory Disease" by Dr. Susan A. Brown DVM</br>
13. ibid.</br>
14. ibid.</br>
[edit] Further reading
- House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit - the ultimate book on rabbit care
- Why Does My Rabbit . . .? - a companion book to the House Rabbit Handbook
- Rabbits for Dummies by Audrey Pavia
- Stories Rabbits Tell - this book is less about rabbit care and more about rabbit's place in the human world. *caution* - later chapters contain disturbing imagery of animal experimentation
- American Rabbit Breeders' Association, Official Guidebook: Raising Better Rabbits and Cavies.
- Wegler, Monika, Rabbits: A Complete Pet Owner's Manual, ISBN 0-7641-0937-5.
[edit] External links
- House Rabbit Society, an informational guide on pet rabbits.
- The British Rabbit Council, recognised breeds with photographs and more.
- The Language of Lagomorphs or "What Your Rabbit is Saying and How to Speak Back".
- Rabbit RehomeA Network of Rescue Centres with care advice and an excellent forum
- MediRabbitA site dedicated to spreading the knowledge of rabbit medicine and safe medication in rabbits, for the owner and the vet professional.cs:Králík domácí
