Longeing
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Longeing or lungeing is a technique for training horses. It is performed on a large circle with the horse traveling around the trainer in the middle.
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[edit] Reasons for Longeing
- To teach a young or green horse the aids, and to improve the horse's response to voice commands and the trainer's body language
- To help settle a horse before riding, especially a high-strung horse or a horse that has been in a stall for a while. (NOTE: longeing is NOT to tire a horse out, just to "get the bucks out" before a rider gets on. Proper turnout can help most horses that are longed for this reason.)
- To exercise a horse that cannot yet be ridden, such a young or green horse, or if the regular rider cannot ride.
- To develop balance, rhythm, and to improve the horse's gaits.
- Longeing a rider is very valuable for teaching, as the rider may develop their seat and position without having to worry about controlling the horse. (As seen here [1] and here [2]).
- Longeing is also an important part of the sport of vaulting.
[edit] Equipment for Longeing
Longe Line
The longe line (or longe) should be about 30 feet (10 m) long, so the longeing circle can have a diameter of 60 feet (20 m). It may have a snap, buckle, or chain on the end. A chain [3], although commonly used with high-strung horses, is thought to spoil the contact. It is also quite severe. When you begin longeing, it is best to use a snap-end longe line. Cotton longe lines [4] are generally preferred over nylon [5], as they are less likely to burn the trainer's hands.
Longe Whip
The whip usually has a stock of 6 feet (1.8 m), with a lash of 5–6 feet (1.5–1.8 m) (although some are longer). The whip should be light, easy to handle, and well balanced. It is best not to use a dressage or driving whip for longeing because they are so short.
Head Equipment
Cavesson
A longeing cavesson [6] is the most commonly used piece of equipment. It is a type of headstall, usually with three rings on the noseband to which the longe line is attached. The noseband is usually metal with padding, providing good control of the horse. Unlike a bridle, there is no chance of damaging the horse's mouth.
A longe cavesson may be used with or without a bridle. When used with a snaffle bridle, the cavesson goes inside the cheekpieces of the bridle to prevent pinching. The bridle cheekpieces should be lengthened so that the bit still rests correctly in the mouth. The noseband of the bridle is usually removed.
When fitting a longe cavesson [7], the noseband must be on the nasal bone of the horse's nose, NOT on the cartilage. Nosebands that are too low are very uncomfortable for the horse. The jowl strap of the cavesson must be snug, or the cavesson may slip into the horse's eye.
Bridle
A bridle may be used in lieu of a cavesson [8]. However, the trainer must be fairly experienced, as it is possible to injure a horse's mouth. The bit should be a snaffle. The reins should be kept out of the way, either by removing them, or by twisting them several times under the throat and then running the throatlash of the bridle through the twists before buckling it. Here is a good example of a properly applied bridle and cavesson, note the reins [9].
There are two ways to attach the longe:
1) Buckling it through the inside bit ring and the noseband of the bridle. This requires a buckle-end longe line, or a line with a large snap. This is the best way to attach the longe, as the noseband receives some pressure from the longe line. The buckle must be changed to the opposite side when directions are changed.
2) Running the longe line through the inside bit rung, over the poll, and attaching it to the outside bit ring (as seen here [10] and here [11]). It this method is used, it is best to run the longe line under the throatlash on either side. This must also be changed each time the horse changes direction. This method is more severe than the other, as it has a gag effect, raising the bit up and applying pressure on the corners of the mouth and placing pressure on the poll. It is best for horses that pull, or when the trainer is longeing a rider, to ensure maximum control of the horse.
Do not attach the longe line just to the inside bit ring [12], as the outside ring can slide through the mouth when the line is pulled and damage the horse's mouth. Do not attach run the line through the inside bit ring, under the chin, and attach it to the outside bit ring, as this causes the bit to pinch the horse's jaw, causes the bit to put pressure on the roof of the horse's mouth, and does not provide the needed control.
Halters
A halter should only be used when a longe cavesson or a bridle is not available. It does not provide the control as the other two devices, nor does it give signals as clearly. A halter may also slip up into the horse's eye. To prevent this, it is possible to make a jowl strap with baling twine. If a halter is used, the halter should fit well. When used with a bridle [13], put the halter on over the bridle.
Always attach the longe line to the inside ring of the noseband, not the ring under the chin, as that encourages the horse to twist its head to the side.
Protective Boots or Bandages
It is best to protect your horse's legs while longeing, as they are more likely to interfere when on a circle. Bell boots should be put on the front legs, brushing or splint boots should be on all four legs, or properly applied exercise bandages [14].
Saddles and Surcingles
A saddle is often worn when a horse is longeing. If a horse is longed with a saddle, it is important to run up the stirrups so that they will not bang against his side [15]. To do this, run up the stirrups as you normally would, then bring the loop of stirrup leather around the stirrup iron before bringing it under the back branch and attaching looping the end of the leather (with the holes in it) through the stirrup leather loop.
A surcingle is a band that straps around the girth area, and has rings around on its side for side reins and long reins or to attach training equipment [16] [17]. It may also be used on a young horse to get it used to girth pressure. It may be used with [18] or without a saddle underneath. When used without a saddle, it is best to use a pad underneath, and to fit it as you would a saddle. When used with a saddle, the stirrups should be removed.
Side Reins
Side reins [19] are usually used for more advanced horses. They give the horse something to take contact with, encourage balance and correct head carriage, help a horse develop self-carriage, and help stop a horse from over bending in the neck. Side reins may be attached from the bit to the surcingle rings [20], or from the bit to the billets of the girth [21][22]. Incorrect used of side reins can cause a horse to go behind the bit, spoil the horse's training, and even cause the horse to feel trapped, leading to rearing and the possibility that the horse will flip over.
Side reins are adjusted longer for less-experienced horses, and gradually shortened, and raised higher (from point of shoulder up to the point of hip) as a horse becomes better trained. In either case, the horse should never have his head pulled behind the vertical. For green horses, the side reins should be adjusted so that the horse's head is approximately 4 inches in front of the vertical.
Side reins should be adjusted so they are the same length on either side. Always fasten the outside rein before the inside rein.
Side reins are only for work in the trot and canter. Working a horse in side reins at the walk can spoil the gait. A horse should always be warmed up and cooled down without the side reins, allowing him to stretch down. Side reins should not be used for jumping, as they restrict the use of the neck too much, and may even cause the horse to fall.
Equipment for the Trainer
The trainer should always wear gloves when longeing, to help prevent burns if the horse were to pull. Proper boots are also recommended, with an enclosed toe. A helmet is also sometimes worn, especially if the horse tends to kick at the trainer. It is best not to wear spurs, which can get caught on the line and cause the trainer to trip.
[edit] The Aids
The longe line
The longe line takes the place of the rider's rein aids. It may be held like a rein, with the line running to the bridle held between the fourth and fifth finger, or held like a driving rein, with it running between the thumb and second finger. The elbow should be softly bent, and the arm at an approximately 90-degree angle. The horse and lunger should not pull, jerk, or "hang" on the line. Like rein aids while riding, signals should be given smoothly and as softly as possible to get the desired response, with aids given by squeezing or turning the hand.
The longe line traveling from the horse to the hand is held in the hand in which direction the horse is moving (so if the horse is working clockwise to the right, the right hand is the leading hand). The extra longe line should be folded (NOT COILED, as seen here [23]) in the other hand. If the horse were to take off, a coiled line could tighten around the trainer's hand, dragging the trainer and possibly causing permanent damage to the hand or fingers caught. The loops should not be too large, as they could be stepped on or caught on something.
- Opening rein: where the lead hand moves to the side and out, away from the trainer's body. It helps to lead the horse forward.
- Direct rein: a squeeze and release on the line backwards helps to keep the horse from moving out on the circle, causes the horse to bend inward, or asks the horse to make the circle smaller.
- Indirect rein: where the longe hand moves back and sideways towards the other hip. It asks the horse to slow or halt.
- Giving the longe: briefly releasing the line towards the horse's head, before re-establishing contact. Acts as a reward, asks the horse to lower its head, or asks the horse to move out onto a larger circle. The line should not drag or become very loose when this is performed.
- Vibrating: several short, brief squeezes of the longe line. Used to halt or slow the horse down without pulling.
- Half-halting: as in riding, it is used for re-balancing the horse, calling his attention to the trainer, and prepares him for a command. Must be used in conjunction with the whip and voice.
The whip
The longe whip takes the place of the rider's legs, asking the horse to move forward or out. It should be held with the tip low, pointing towards the horse's hocks, with the lash dragging on the ground. The whip is held in the hand that the horse is not going (so if the horse were going to the right, the whip would be held in the lunger's left hand). The horse should accept the whip as an aid, but should not be fearful. When the lunger goes toward the horse to adjust equipment, the lash should be caught up and the whip turned backward, under the lunger's arm, so that it does not interfere with the horse.
- Pointing the whip at the shoulder is used to make the horse move out or stops him from moving inward on the circle.
- Pointing the whip, and making a forward rotating movement, at the hocks asks the horse to increase speed or impulsion.
- Pointing the whip in front of the head, going under the longe line, can be used to ask a horse to slow or halt.
- Cracking the whip should be reserved for extreme cases, such as a horse that refuses to move forward. It should not be overused, or the horse may begin to ignore it. Cracking upsets some horses. If a crack is needed, it should be done behind the hindquarters.
- Touching the horse with the lash is used to make the horse move strongly forward. The lash is usually applied where the rider's leg would be, in the girth area. It may also be used on the hindquarters, although this causes some horses to kick, or on the shoulder, to prevent the horse from running inward. It is usually used only lightly, in an upward motion. Stinging snaps should be reserved for emergencies.
The voice
The voice is used in the same manner as when riding. It is used mainly for transitions, praise, or to express displeasure. Although the voice is not commonly used for riding, it is very important in longeing and should be used frequently. However, the trainer should not carry on a conversation with her horse, as the horse will begin to tune out voice commands.
- All words used in transitions for longeing should be broken into two syllables. Upward transitions should raise the second syllable to a higher pitch (such as trrr-ROT or can-TER), downward transitions should lower the pitch of the second syllable (trrr-o-o-t).
- A word, such as "and", should be used as a half-halting word. For example, to ask for walk to trot transition, one would say "a-a-a-nd trrr-o-o-t".
- A word, other than whoa, should be reserved to calm a horse (such as easy or steady), This word should be spoken in a low tone and calm manner.
- A word for praise (such as "good boy") should be used frequently whenever the horse responds correctly to a command.
- A word such as "OUT" should be used to ask the horse to increase the circle size or to help stop the horse from cutting in. It must be used firmly.
- "NO!" should be spoken in a displeased tone when the horse misbehaves (such as he begins kicking). It should be said sharply right when a horse is not compliant.
- A trainer may also cluck to increase speed or impulsion. It is best to cluck when the inside hind leg is moving forward. Overuse of clucking will cause a horse to ignore the trainer.
[edit] The Longe Area
It is best to longe in an enclosed area. If the horse escapes, he will be easier to catch, and an enclosed area will make him easier to control on the longe. Ideally, a 60-foot (20 m) longeing pen would be used. However, an enclosed arena or small field, in a corner, may also be used [24]. For safety, it is best if there is no one riding in the longeing area.
The footing should not be slippery or deep, to help prevent slipping and injuries. The ground should be relatively flat (don't longe on a hill), for the horse's balance.
The circle should be large (approx. 20 meters), as smaller circles tend to increase strain on the horse's joints and ligaments.
[edit] Time Limits
Longeing is stressful on a horse's legs, so it is best to limit your longeing session to about 20 minutes. Direction and gaits should be changed frequently so that both sides of the horse are worked evenly and to keep the work interesting for the horse.

