Ski wax

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Ski wax is a material applied to the bottom of skis or snowboards to help them perform on snow.

1 Type of ski wax
- 1.1 Glide wax
- 1.2 Grip wax
2 Glide waxing process
3 Grip waxing process, Cross-Country only
- 3.1 Kick Wax
- 3.2 Klister Wax
4 Application Tools
5 History
6 See also
7 External links

[edit] Type of ski wax

In general, ski wax can be broken down into two categories: "grip" and "glide".

[edit] Glide wax

Glide wax describes a range of waxes which can be applied to Nordic and alpine skis (as well as snowboards). The gliding property of a ski is an attempt to optimize the thin water film under the ski. Skiing over snow is a combination of both wet friction and dry friction -- too much water will create wet drag (suction) while too little water will result is dry drag (friction). A properly selected glide wax will aid in this delicate balance.

A glide waxes is selected based on temperature primarily as well as snow structure and relative humidity. It is applied to the "glide zone" of a ski. For Alpine skis and snowboards the entire base is the glide zone. For Nordic skis the glide zone will depend on the style of skiing being done. For Nordic Classical the glide zone will be the tips and tails of the ski, but not the kick zone (see below). For Nordic Skating the entire ski base will be the glide zone. The manufacturers' packages provide reasonable guidelines for matching a glide wax to the skiing conditions.

[edit] Grip wax

Grip wax describes a variety of waxes specific to cross country skiing. This wax comes in two forms, "kick" and "klister". Kick wax is a firm substance which comes in a small tin. It used for new snow (good snow crystal structure) and/or snow that is cold (below freezing). Klister is a semi-liquid which comes in containers similar to toothpaste containers. Klister is notoriously sticky and deserves its reputation as a difficult wax to use, but is excellent when used in icy conditions (below freezing when the snow has lost good crystal structure) or with snow that is relatively warm and wet (above freezing).

Although the nuances of grip waxing are incredibly complex, all grip waxes serve generally the same purpose. The wax is applied to the central portion of the ski called the "kick zone". The kick zone extends out from skier's heel to about 15cm ahead of the binding. When pressure is applied down the wax in the kick zone grips the snow and allows the skier to propel themselves forward. This is referred to as the classical technique. A well selected grip wax will release it's hold on the snow as the pressure on the kick zone is released.

When selecting a grip wax the temperature range listed on the package is the best recommendation to begin with. If not enough grip is available then a grip wax with a slightly warmer recommention should be tried. If too much grip is available (snow clumping in the kick zone) then a slightly colder grip wax should be tried. Always remember to allow the skis to cool outside for 10 minutes are applying grip wax. Otherwise the behavior of the wax will be incorrect because it is still warm from its application. Skiers should understand that grip waxing around the freezing point (0 C) is the most difficult and should not become frustrated at themselves.

There are a wide variety of materials used for grip wax. Both natural and synthetic materials are used.

[edit] Glide waxing process

Glide waxing is much more common than grip waxing, simply because more people use downhill skis, waxless cross-country skis or skate skis. Waxless cross-country skis usually have etched gripping surfaces that eliminate the need to apply grip wax. Also, the glide surfaces (the front and rear uncambered areas) of all classic skis are glide waxed. There are typically three types of waxing:

[edit] Hot waxing

This method, albeit tedious, offers the best performance. It requires a waxing iron (see below), nylon brush, and a plastic scraper as the basic tools. Wax appropriate for the anticipated temperature range is heated up against the iron and melted, dripping onto the base of the ski. The wax is then ironed across the base at 100 C to 130 C. The appropriate ironing temperature is often listed on the box the wax comes in. Generally speaking, if the wax is smoking then the iron is too hot. Keep the iron moving so that the base does not overheat: the base should be hot enough to keep the wax molten for a second or two after the iron passes over it, but never scalding to the touch. After allowing the base to cool for 8 to 20 minutes, the excess wax is scraped off from the front of the ski towards the back. Then the ski is brushed with a nylon brush in order to remove excess wax from the base and expose structure in the base. Always work in a well ventilated location; avoid inhaling excess fumes and/or wax smoke. Do not smoke tobacco products while applying ski wax.

[edit] Hair dryer paste waxing

This method is a cheap and easy alternative to the hot wax method. The preferred wax is a paste wax or rub-on wax, as opposed to the solid waxes used for hot waxing. Simply heat up the ski base with a hair dryer, then apply a layer of wax and reheat the wax onto the base with the hair dryer. A nylon brush or scraper can be used to remove excessive wax before skiing.

[edit] Paste, liquid, spray-on, and rub-on waxing

These are the simplest waxing methods, though they offer the least performance. Generally by casual skiers, all that is required is to smear/rub-on a layer of wax onto the ski base, and let it dry (ranging from 15 minutes to an hour, though generally longer drying times provide the best results) before buffing it into the ski base with a waxing cork. Waxes applied by these methods will offer some performance initially, however they don't last as long as a hot-wax and will require frequent re-applications to maintain the same level of performance.

[edit] Grip waxing process, Cross-Country only

[edit] Kick Wax

This comes in three forms: the traditional hard wax in an aluminum tin, as a liquid paste and as a tape. The three forms can be used by recreational, fitness and racing skiers. With all forms leave the skis outside to adjust to the temperature before using (usually 10 to 15 minutes). Kick wax that has not had time to adjust to the same temperature as outside will not perform correctly. This can incorrectly lead the skier to believe that the wrong kick wax was applied.

The hard wax is crayoned onto the kick zone of the ski and then rubbed with a cork. For durability the hard wax is best applied in several thin layers and corked between each layer. The corking is to evenly distribute the wax over the kick zone while warming it to improve adhesion to the ski base. For increased durability needed on very long outings or races the hard wax can be ironed into the kick zone. There is a specific kick basewax for applying as the first layer to aid in the adhesion and longevity that racers regularly use. Racers and ski wax technicians regularly blend and layer different kick waxes to obtain the best application for the conditions. Recreational skiers do not need to perform such complex applications and should keep the application straight-forward.

The liquid form needs no corking. It is spread across the kick zone in a thin layer and left to dry in a warm room for 10 to 15 minutes. The primary intent of this form is ease and speed of application. There can be conditions that the hard kick wax or klister may be better suited (usually when it gets very cold or very warm).

The tape form is applied by unrolling sheet covered with kick wax and sticking it to the kick zone. The tape is then trimmed to match the length of the kick zone. The wax on the tape is designed to cover a wide range of temperatures and to be used for many ski trips. However, it is not perfect for all conditions. Users of the tape have reported a wide range of results when using it. The tape can be removed and saved for a future application.

[edit] Klister Wax

Klister wax comes in a squeeze tube and is best applied in warm location. It is squeezed out of its tube onto the kick zone of the ski, and then spread using a paddle or with a thumb. Some people use a hair drier or iron to warm it to adhere to the ski base better. Klister wax is often applied in combination with hard wax to ensure lasting results (though this racing technique is best avoided by recreational skiers). Klister is also available in a spray-on can. Since peoples hands are so readily available, they're often the preferred tool for application of Klister, especially while out on the ski trail. Those who are not used to working with Klister may find the stickiness hard to deal with as there will almost always be some remaining on your hands when you're done with the application. Although it may seem uncomfortable at first, the best thing to do is to put your gloves back on and ski. The klister will disolve slowly with the moisture inside of your gloves and will not be noticeable after a short period of skiing.

[edit] Application Tools

There are a wide variety of tools that can be used to aid in the application of ski wax. Most beginners only require a few tools. Racers and wax technicians will want more tools to improve and/or speed their ski wax application.

For glide waxing the basic tools are typically a waxing iron, a plastic scraper and a nylon brush. For grip waxing a cork (natural or synthetic) for application and a plastic scraper for removal (though not the one used for glide wax).

The potential list of tools is very long and can include: waxing irons, scrapers, profiles/vises, brushes, files, screwdrivers, drills, thermometers, hot boxes, planers, clamps, rillers, special pads, cleaners and respirators. These tools are used not only in the direct application of the wax to the ski, but for the preparation of the ski base before applying the ski wax.

[edit] Waxing Irons

Special-purpose ski waxing irons have more accurate temperature controls, thicker bases and smoother bases. The thick bases help keep the heat evenly spread over the entire entire surface. The more accurate temperature control means the iron maintains the selected temperature without excessive temperature spikes or drops. All together this results in better wax penetration into the ski base because each wax has an ideal application temperature. The iron's flat base also allows for easy cleaning so that waxes from previous applications do not become mixed with the current application resulting in a contaminated wax mixture.

Clothes irons are very inexpensive and will heat to the correct temperature (hot enough to melt the wax). However, the thin base tends to not distribute the heat as evenly and the lower quality temperature control usually results in wide temperature variations during application which will yield poorer results. The steam holes do not do any harm, as long as the steam function isn't used, but they do collect wax. The collected wax will mix with future applications which is not good. A clothes iron that has been used to wax skis should not be used to iron clothes, as the wax residue left behind on the iron would likely ruin clothing.

[edit] Corks

Corks come in two materials: natural and synthetic. They come in small and large blocks as well as on a special roller (a roto-cork). The corks are used primarily for the spreading of Nordic grip waxes. But they are also used extensively by Nordic and Alpine skiers for applying the high-end fluorocarbon powders.

[edit] Profiles/Vises

These help hold the ski or snowboard in place while waxing and/or tuning is performed. There are different profiles and vises for Nordic skis, Alpine skis and snowboards. Some are large and meant to be left fixed on a workbench while others are portable.

[edit] Brushes

There are a wide variety of different brushes available. They vary depending on material, bristle stiffness, bristle diameter and size. Each type has specific conditions to be used. Recreational skiers do not need all of these brushes. More serious skiers and wax technicians do have all of these brushes. The brush types include stiff nylon (general purpose), soft nylon (finishing/polishing), horsehair (soft and hard), brass (fine and extra fine), copper, fine steel, coarse steel and combination brushes. These brushes come in two forms: hand and roto. The hand brushes are, as the name implies, used by ones hand. Roto brushes are attached to a drill and spin at 2000 to 3000 rpm. Generally the purpose of brushing is to remove the final thin excess layer of wax from the ski without damaging the bases or changing the structure of the ski base. The specialty brushes are used to prepare the ski base and/or deal with very hard waxes.

[edit] History

Ski waxing began in the 1860s of America, where California gold rush miners held impromptu downhill ski races. They soon discovered that bases smeared with dopes brewed from vegetable and/or animal compound helped increase skiing speeds. This led to some of the first commercial ski wax (even though they contained no wax at all), such as Black Dope and Sierra Lighting; both are mainly composed of sperm oil, vegetable oil and pine pitch. However, some instead used paraffin candle wax that melted onto ski bases, and these worked better under colder conditions. Ski waxing has developed into a very complex pseudoscience, its advancement motivated by ski racing. Many companies are dedicated to ski wax production and have developed full lines of wax to cover every condition for the maximum performance. The most recent great advancement in ski wax has been the use of surfactants and fluorocarbons to increase water and dirt repellency and therefore increase glide.